Tag - Food review

Restaurant review: Al Piccolo Mondo
Rue Jourdan 19 What’s good? Opened in 1979 by Leo and Aldo Spagnuolo, Al Piccolo Mondo offers a polished, nostalgic, yet lively Italian dining experience in the heart of Brussels. Upon stepping inside, the staff — led by Leo’s son, Olivier Spagnuolo, who now runs the restaurant with his brother, Valerio — greets you with warmth and charm. The food is rich in flavor, with portions so generous that even the starters could pass for mains. The Aubergine alla Parmigiana, drenched in cheese, melts in your mouth, while the ossobucco and its tagliatelle instantly give you the feeling of being in the south of Italy during a mild winter.  What’s not? Be ready to loosen your purse strings — this isn’t a budget-friendly venue. But a great spot for special occasions. Vibe: With velvet banquettes, warm wood tones, Venetian-style wall art and cozy alcoves, Al Piccolo Mondo feels like “a warm hug” the moment you enter. It’s romantic, old-school and effortlessly elegant. Bonus points for the open kitchen corner to your right as you enter, where a pizza oven crackles and pasta-making magic unfolds before your eyes. Who’s picking up the check? There’s a lunch deal (Monday to Saturday) that includes a starter and main course for €28. Otherwise, starters range from around €15 to €25, while pasta and pizza cost € 20 or more. Most fish and meat dishes cost between €30 and €44.  Spotted: The walls are lined with photos of famous (and less-famous) guests, from politicians to actors and athletes. The most famous? Former U.S. President Bill Clinton, Olivier Spagnuolo said. For the overflow of celebrity photos, check out their Instagram. Insider tip: You can cap your evening with a romantic ride on the nearby Ferris wheel and take in sweeping views of Brussels. Fun fact: Olivier Spagnuolo was running the restaurant floor himself, chatting with clients and taking orders. It gives the place a personal, family-run feel. How to get there: It’s about a 5-minute walk from the Louise metro station to the bustling Rue Jourdan, which is packed with restaurants and bars. Review published on  September, 11 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: La Taverne De ZHAO
Rue Saint-Boniface 34, 1050 Ixelles What’s hot: The homemade noodles are delicious and plentiful. We tested the vegetarian Liang Pi noodles, which are served cold and are a refreshing alternative to the heartier Biang Biang noodle dishes, which come in a creamy sesame sauce, topped with cucumber sticks and crunchy soy sprouts. Although limited, the vegetarian offerings are a hit, from delicate vegetable dumplings and ravioli, to seaweed salad seasoned with a nicely balanced vinaigrette. The dishes each bring different textures and flavors that make up a satisfying mix of rich, light, crunchy and spicy. A special mention goes to the serving of tea at this Chinese dining spot: A beautiful glass tea set is brought to the table, and the first cup is poured through a decadent leaf-shaped tea strainer by the server. What’s not: We were lucky to arrive early for lunch, as it seemed the wait could be an issue for those arriving at peak times. Vibe: During warmer days, the sunny terrace on the popular Saint Boniface street is the place to be. However, the interior is unremarkable, except for the numerous large paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling. Service is polite.  Fun facts: Founded by Zhao Baoyan in 2011 in Paris, this chain has evolved from a single small Chinese bistrot to a network of soon-to-be 12 restaurants, mostly located in France’s capital. La Taverne De ZHAO in Saint Boniface was the 10th — and the first one in Belgium.  Who is picking up the check: It’s great value for money. Starters begin at €6.80 and mains are all below €15. Spotted: There’s a mixed crowd, and you’ll find everyone from the bubble gossiping about the latest job news to families gathering for a meal.  How to get there: Nestled between many other popular restaurants in this bustling Ixelles neighborhood, you can hop on the metro or bus to Porte de Namur and walk down to Saint Boniface in just a few minutes. — JOSEFINE KROLL CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Gratin
Place du Châtelain 47 What’s good? Gratin’s terrace, on the recently refurbished Place du Châtelain, is always busy and buzzing with a trendy-looking crowd. The handsome exterior is suggestive of a relaxed, Parisian bistro, and once inside, we enjoyed decent glasses of orange wine. Unfortunately, that’s about as far as the positives went. What’s not? Trying to get a seat. Our first attempt was aborted after waiting for 10 minutes, only for a waitress to seat other guests who arrived well after us. On our second visit, we managed, after a short wait, to find seats at the bar, then later moved to a table. A casual seating policy works in some places, but probably not in an establishment where a small plate of salmon gravlax costs €17.  Our food, which took a long time, was not good. We opted for aubergine roti (which turned out to be half a limp aubergine covered in multicolored sauces), the aforementioned salmon gravlax (which, though expensive, was reasonably tasty), a “carpaccio” of under-seasoned and watery tomatoes with burrata, and the pièce de résistance, a potato gratin with courgette that was undercooked — to the point of being difficult to eat — and completely bland.  Vibe: A young crowd. The interior design was along mid-century modern lines, with lots of dark greens and browns. Who’s picking up the check? We paid €71 for four small sharing dishes that left us both hungry, and a glass of wine each, plus €6.50 for two ice creams afterward from the night shop next door. We’d learned enough from the mains to skip dessert.  Spotted: A sticker in the window announcing Gratin as part of the Gault&Millau 2025 “Hip” guide — which may provide an important lesson on the value of restaurant guides. Also, a tiny, fluffy, well-behaved Pomeranian on the sofa next to us.  Insider tip: If you insist on giving it a go, arrive early. It’s always busy, it doesn’t take reservations for groups of fewer than six people, and you have to get your elbows out to get seats, particularly outside. Fun fact: One of the waitresses described the seating policy for the terrace outside as “Hunger Games.” Take from that what you will.  How to get there: Walk five minutes into the heart of Châtelain from the Bailli tram stop on Avenue Louise.  — SAM CLARK CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Boaboa Records Café
Rue Vanderkindere 356, 1180, Uccle What’s good? The confit eggplant was a serious highlight. Sitting in a pool of fragrant, bright red tomato sauce with a generous dollop of feta mousse, you’ll want to have extra bread on hand to soak up all the flavor. The comté and potato flatbread with béchamel sauce, topped with onions, was deliciously cozy and creamy, while not too heavy. What’s not? The Belgian endive salad with radicchio and daikon had the potential to be bright and fresh, but instead was bitter and lacking in vinaigrette. Vibe: The interior is relaxed and sophisticated — and bathed in deeply stained wood. The sun-soaked terrace that wrapped around the entire restaurant was filled to the brim with well-dressed people of all ages. And the jazzy, funky sounds emanating from the built-in record mixing table at the back of the restaurant made everything taste a bit sweeter. Who’s picking up the check? At about €30 per person (including a glass of wine), you’re set for the perfect, light summertime dinner. The plates and flatbreads run around €11 to €15, so get two of each to share. Spotted: About 10 different small dogs — from dachshunds to miniature poodles to terriers — enjoying the evening at the feet of their chic owners. Insider tip: Use the ridiculously giant scissors in the cutlery jar on the table to slice up your flatbread, or risk sawing away at the tough crust with your butter knife for a few frustrating minutes. Fun fact: According to our server, the DJ in charge of Boaboa’s music orders 30 to 50 records per week to switch up the selection. How to get there: Take Bus 60 in the Uccle Calevoet direction to the stop Clinique Edith Cavell. Boaboa is a minute away on foot. — LIV MARTIN CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Kline
Vlaamseseteenweg 162, 1000, Brussels What’s good? Don’t be put off by the simple lettuce leaf seasoned with linseed oil you’ll be offered as a starter. The hip restaurant’s trendy plate-sharing concept takes you on a journey through fresh ingredients, cooked and presented in simple, deconstructed ways — what chefs Katrien, Dom and Nico describe as brutalist gastronomy. If you like tasting many flavors in one evening, combine at least three dishes per person from the menu. It’s difficult to give recommendations, as the restaurant changes dishes every two to three weeks to reflect ingredient availability and seasonality — but you will always find the signature beet chutney, a favorite among regulars. What’s not: If you are a big eater, this restaurant is a no-go, as the small portions won’t satisfy you. Kline also isn’t ideal for those who prefer variety, with its limited menu of five starters, two meat dishes, two fish options and three desserts. Vibe: Brutalist gastronomy brings brutalist architecture. Feel inspired by the bare concrete walls and focus your senses in the dish in front of you while you smell the cooking taking place in the adjacent fully open kitchen. Who’s picking up the check: Unless you have an EU civil servant’s salary, you might want to stay away: The most brutal aspect is the price. Don’t expect to pay less than €100 for a two-person dinner — and up to €180 if you order dessert and a bottle of wine. The most eye-watering moment? Paying €6 per person for … tap water. Spotted: Expect to find hordes of Flemish hipsters. Fun fact: The restaurant is named after painter Franz Kline, one of the leading members of the abstract expressionist movement in the U.S. during the 1940s and 1950s. His simplistic paintings with thick, rough black strokes helped shape the brutalist concept behind the restaurant.   Insider tip: In true European fashion, service runs in two shifts, Nordic and Southern: from 6 p.m. to 8:15 p.m.; and from 8:45 p.m. to 11 p.m. How to get there: Kline is located few blocks away from Place Sainte-Catherine in the center of Brussels, easily connected via metro to the EU institutions. Review published on  June, 26 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review